How do you like to break your engine in?

I think a few of us are getting new engines very soon

Just interested who uses which of the various methods?!

me am using a "heat cycle break-in" method. big difference in power and longer life for the rigs.

What procedure do you follow when heat cycling Allan?

How hot do you get the engine, how many cycles etc?

Hi dave,normally its around 200f. Or u can refer to the method below. I cut n paste from ascendancy racing web.

Below are procedures outlined by the late, great Ron Paris for breaking in a race engine. We at Ascendancy Racing us this method to break in our own race engines and recommend it for our customers. The most important aspect of any engine break in procedure is to monitor the heat of the engine and TAKE YOUR TIME! We hope the below helps.

From Ron Paris....

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your XX will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your XX's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory XX settings are very rich on every XX I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 XX engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

hey dave, for the heat cycle method, you'll need a heatgun and a piece of can which you will put over the cooling head while you heat it to get inital temp if 200degrees F, before you start it up. or if you have extra money (which i dont have ) you can get The Competition Heat for 99$

another alternative for a heat gun, if you dont have access to 220v, is a butane gun. cost only 25dhs for the gun and 5dhs for a can of butane.

or you can get a 12v Competition Heat for 110$

Yup richie,i forgot to mention about the initial heating before starting the engine and dont forget to put some after run oil in the engine also.both will really make your conrod last longer n the engine also.